Optimum health for cats is achieved by coming as close to what Mother Nature intended as possible.

Our cats are in desperate need of natural health care. For generations they have been fed dry and canned food that is not what their systems need or want. Nearly every cat over the age of five has kidney problems because of the lack of fluid in their food and low acidity because the food has been cooked.

Felines and canines in the wild eat exactly the same prey. The main difference between them is that cats never eat dehydrated prey. If a cat kills an animal and is not hungry at that moment, s/he will leave it for another carnivore to eat. Cats are very adept at killing and it’s part of their job in the wild to kill for others who are not as capable of killing as they are. When they are hungry they will kill again and eat only fresh, fully hydrated prey. Dogs will eat everything from fresh kill to dehydrated, decomposed, rotten road-kill. Cats want, need and like fresh-kill only.

Three out of four cats have cancer. At least that many have kidney ailments. Cats are in serious trouble.

Too many of them are on drugs and chemicals that are poisons to the body—whether it is cortisone; antibiotics; antihistamines; life-threatening, sometimes fatal, internal and external flea products; deadly vaccines; insulin; synthetic thyroid—or because they are under the knife, having parts of their bodies unnecessarily excised.

The majority of these ailments can be prevented and/or cured with natural health care. First of all, start with the proper raw food, organic vitamins, minerals and enzymes. If further help is needed, probiotics, homeopathic remedies and nutraceuticals may be necessary.

You’ll never know how easy, effective and cost-saving healthy foods can be until you’ve read this book.

If your cat is ill or already has problems, s/he will need to be on the same basic raw food program with additional organic supplements.

  

*Reduce or eliminate expensive visits to the veterinarian’s office.

*Peace of mind that your beloved companions are getting the very best of care and will soon gain and maintain excellent health and well-being.

 

* Clear eyes

* Healthy, shiny coat

* Healthy skin

* Clean teeth

* Eliminates fleas

* Eliminate bad breath

* Eliminate body odor

* Less volume and smell of stools

* Increased energy—good, healthy energy

* Hyper and/or aggressive cats become calm

* Increased endurance

* Increased alertness, attention

* Enhance overall health and well-being

* Rejuvenate organs and immune system

* Increased coat growth

* Increased confidence

* Extreme reduction of: * allergies * underweight * overweight * parasites * temperament problems * phobic behaviors * hyperthyroidism * arthritis * ear/eye ailments * kidney/bladder dysfunction * incontinence * irritable bowel syndrome * constipation * diarrhea * indigestion * pancreatitis * dermatitis, to mention a few.

 

 

Cats were designed by Mother Nature to eat everything RAW. We may not like the idea of the food chain, but it is as it is. Don’t mess with Mother Nature!

In the wild, felines eat mice, birds, lizards, worms and insects, to name a few. The closest we can come to feeding our animals the way Mother Nature intended and still be culturally acceptable in this country is to feed beef, chicken, lamb, turkey, fish, eggs, buffalo, venison, emu, ostrich and a few others not so common.

In addition, these meats must be combined with a balance of organ meats, fats and vegetables for the proper protein/carbohydrate balance. In other words, provide for your cat a raw food program that is as close to eating the whole animal as possible.

Cats were designed by Mother Nature to eat everything RAW. In the wild felines eat mice, birds, lizards and other prey animals raw…no one is cooking in the wild.

The prey is raw, fresh and alive. The bones are still soft, supple, hydrated and full of nutrients. Our own domestic cats must eat live food just as they do in the wild to be at their optimum health.

Domestically the choices for our cats include beef, chicken, lamb, turkey, eggs, venison, buffalo, emu, ostrich, elk or whatever is available in your area.

The reason you cannot feed the bones of these farm animals is because they are not fresh kill. They have been dead for days, weeks or months. Rigor mortis sets in right after death and the bones become hard, brittle, dehydrated; the nutrients are dead and gone. What is left is a gritty substance that causes severe pancreatitis, kidney/bladder problems, crystals/stones in the urine, leaky-gut, irritable and/or impacted bowel, impacted anal glands, chalky and bloody stools, diarrhea, constipation, all of which are devastating to the gastrointestinal system.

Yes, you can occasionally give some cats bones for dessert; however, people often take things to the extreme, give them as a meal and give them too often. After what I have seen in the past several years, I am now opposed to feeding bone…ground or whole…except an occasional bone for dessert to chew on for pleasure. And even that needs to be evaluated depending on the individual cat, how voraciously s/he goes after the bone, whether that particular cat actually eats the bone, whether s/he can digest it, and what it looks like when it comes out the other end.

If there are any digestive problems, do not give bones. If there are any chalky or bloody stools, diarrhea or constipation, do not give bones.

 

The three main ways we know cats are carnivores has to do with their teeth, their small intestines and their acidic digestive system.

1) Their teeth are sharp for ripping and tearing, not masticating.

2) The small intestines are short to enable the meat to go through the system quickly before it putrefies.

3) Their pH must be kept on the acidic end of the spectrum in order for a carnivore to be healthy.

 

Raw, live foods have enzymes, little protein molecules, which are essential for digesting food, for stimulating the brain, for providing cellular energy, for repairing all tissues, organs and cells, and functions so diverse that it is impossible to name them all.

Cooked food is dead. Everything in a can or a bag is cooked. All processed foods for people or animals have been cooked, sterilized, or pasteurized, which means all the enzymes and friendly bacteria that are needed to digest and utilize the food are destroyed. “We are what we eat” is not exactly correct. We are what we utilize!

 

Live food is essential for health. It is the ultimate source of life. There is no other way to be disease free. No matter who tells you that a certain brand of commercial food or home-cooked food is healthy for your cat, it is not. It is dead – no enzymes, no friendly bacteria, no nutrients. Animal nutritionists, pet store owners, store clerks, veterinarians, authors of nutrition books or anyone else suggesting cooked foods for cats must not be familiar with what carnivores need for optimum health. If they were, they would not be prescribing, suggesting and/or selling cooked foods for cats. ALL felines were designed to eat fresh RAW food.

Put a hamburger patty in a pan and watch the wonderful fatty acids become grease. That’s one of the reactions you can actually see. Every molecule in food changes during the cooking process. For a carnivore that can mean serious problems for the pancreas when it cannot come up with the necessary enzymes because it doesn’t recognize the distorted molecule. That is one of the reasons for constipation, diarrhea, kidney/liver problems, hairballs, sebaceous cysts, other benign lumps and fatty tumors on your cat. The body has to either store or dump these foreign objects some place because it doesn’t recognize them, and therefore, doesn’t know where to send them, how to process them or even how to get rid of them, except to treat them as what they are—foreign objects.

The list of raw and cooked materials that go into commercial pet food is horrendous: decayed animals from slaughterhouses classified as 4-D (dead, diseased, dying and disabled); animals filled with antibiotics, steroids, hormones, drugs, radiation, formaldehyde, charcoal; road-kill; dead and diseased animals from zoos; dogs, cats and other companion animals that died or were euthanized at veterinary clinics; including plastic body bags, decorative collars, flea collars, ID tags or anything else that was on the body; spoiled meat from meat markets, including the plastic wrap; rancid grease and spoiled food from restaurants; donuts/breads from bakeries; hair, feathers, egg shells, hooves, stomach, bowels, feces, cancerous tissues and organs; all of these animals full of bacteria, viruses, fungi, worms and parasites.

In addition there is black paint which is a term used in the meat industry to cover any number of chemicals from carbolic acid to fuel oil. All left-over meat, poultry, bones and offal from production of food for human consumption is put into barrels with black paint added to every layer to indicate that this food is not for human consumption. This is the basis of the meat that most pet food companies use.

All of this material is ground up and cooked for approximately an hour at 250 degrees. The fat separates during the process and is removed. Actually there exists a videotape of a show narrated by Martin Sheen that shows the processing at a rendering plant. It is stated in this program that these fats are not only used for animal food, but for people foods and cosmetics. The left-over, after the fats are removed, is then pressed to remove all moisture and crushed into what is called bone meal and meat meal.

If the label says chicken meal, for instance, that means that there are more chicken products in this batch than any other one ingredient. However, if there are nineteen other ingredients in this batch, then there has to be only 6 percent chicken products, including feathers, offal, feces, etc, to qualify to call it chicken meal.

The manufacturing process destroys whatever minimal nutritional content there might have been. Then the commercial pet food companies put in sodium benzoate, sodium nitrite, BHA, BHT, MSG, red dye #40, blue dye #2, propylene glycol, formalin, ethoxyquin or other potential carcinogenic additives, not to mention the rancid grease, salt and sugar.

Sodium Benzoate is a known poison to cats! One of the most commonly used preservatives right now that is highly touted as being okay and seen even in “health foods” is benzoic acid or its salt form, sodium benzoate. These can affect the nervous system, cause allergic reactions, asthma attacks, stomach irritations and hyperactivity.

 

All of the above-mentioned preservatives and many more are all approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration. As far as the FDA is concerned, no one has proved that any of these ingredients cause health problems in people or animals.

However, studies show that all of these preservatives may cause cancer, epilepsy, birth defects, metabolic stress, severe allergic reactions, brain defects, liver and kidney ailments and behavior problems.

AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials, is the FDA of our domesticated animals, and just as the FDA doesn’t protect people, the AAFCO doesn’t protect our animals.

 

No one is looking out for your animals’ nutrition anymore than they are looking out for our children’s. Cold breakfast cereals, hot dogs, canned spaghetti, etc, are not nourishing foods for children. Commercial food companies are out to please your pallet and their wallet with lots of sugar and salt and tempt the appetite with pretty, colorful labels to catch your eye. The bottom line for the majority of commercial food companies is profit, not healthy foods for your animals or your children.

 

Felines in the wild eat mice, birds, squirrels, reptiles, insects, to name a few. These animals are not that easily available nor are some of them culturally acceptable for human consumption. Our cultures does, however, accept eating beef, lamb, chicken, turkey and fish, (unless you hunt buffalo, venison, duck and a few others, they are usually too expensive) so we will discuss what is culturally acceptable, even though my preference is to feed what Mother Nature intended.

Naturally raised meats, poultry and fish and organic vegetables are preferred, of course. If not naturally grown, you have to find the best you can. What is important is that it is fresh or fresh-frozen and labeled for human consumption…not labeled for animals.

Of course it is better to feed meat and poultry that does not contain antibiotics, hormones and steroids; however, if you cannot find naturally grown meats, then go to the busiest market and at least you will be getting fresh meat.

The key words here are human consumption. Most foods that are labeled for animals are not fit to eat. Why would anyone feed their animals anything less than they would eat themselves?

 

Because cats are carnivores and raw meat is their natural food, their digestive juices take care of salmonella, Escherichia coli and other unfriendly bacteria that cause food poisoning. Many veterinarians oppose the feeding of raw meat and tend to unjustly blame salmonella, E coli and parasites when actually the problems come from a weakened digestive system and/or an autoimmune condition caused by feeding cooked foods and/or raw bones. Enlightened veterinary practitioners realize this and encourage their clients to feed raw meat, raw vegetables and organic supplements.

In 30 years of working professionally with people and their cats, I have never heard of a case of salmonella or E coli from raw food fit for human consumption. I have heard of salmonella from eating cooked food. The worst salmonella problem in the country in 1998 was several thousand pounds of cooked baby cereal that was contaminated and had to be recalled. So don’t think because you are cooking the food you are necessarily killing the unfriendly bacteria.

 

My basic recipe is 75 percent raw meat, poultry or fish and 25 percent raw vegetables. The recommended breakdown of the meat and vegetables is 40 percent muscle meat, 20 percent organ meat, 15 percent fat and 25 percent vegetable.

If you feed more meat one day and less vegetables because that is what you have on hand, don’t worry. The body remembers. The above percentages are a guideline to what carnivores need. Don’t be a purist and feel you have to give the exact proportions every day. As people we don’t do that for ourselves, so don’t go overboard for your cats either.

Unfortunately at the present time I know of no company making 75% raw meat and 25% raw vegetables commercially that doesn’t either contain ground bone or fruit or grain…none of which are acceptable for cats.

 

Preparation of 1 cup of food: 6 ounces (3/4 cup) of raw ground meat and 2 ounces (1/4 cup) of raw ground vegetables.

Preparation of 4 cups of food: 3 cups of raw ground meat and 1 cup of raw ground vegetables. The ratio is always 3 meat to 1 vegetables.

Buy the least expensive meat because that will be higher in fat content. Use dark meat and all the skin from chicken and turkey, because that’s where the highest fat and nutrient content is.

The ESP Supplements are the only organic supplements you will need for a complete and balanced meal. These organic supplements are to be given on an empty stomach.

The recommended breakdown for each meal is 40% muscle meat, 20% organ meat, 15% fat and 25% vegetable. This is the breakdown after the meat and vegetables are mixed. You should start with the highest fat content in the meat that you can get. That is usually 22 to 28%.

These percentages are a guideline to what carnivores need. Just as you don’t eat exact percentages of meat and carbohydrates each day, your cat doesn’t have to either.

Proteins that are best for cats are beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, organ meats (liver, heart, kidney, spleen and gizzards), egg yolks and wild fish. Proteins that are great if you are a hunter or fisher or can afford to buy them are venison, elk, buffalo, ostrich, emu, and in some areas and fresh/salt water fish.

Other proteins, which are sometimes questionable because of pollutants, diseases or indigestibility, are pork, rabbit, fish and many dairy products. Probably the only fish that is safe anymore is wild fish fit for human consumption which, unfortunately, is very expensive, unless you catch them yourself.

First let’s talk about the ones that are the best. Farm animals naturally range fed provide the very best quality of meats. Next would be the meats that are found in meat markets and supermarkets.

I would like to say that organic meats are the best, but there are too many companies out there saying their meats are organically raised that must not be, because we’ve had too many reports of animals not doing well on what are referred to as organic meats. So I can only believe that they really aren’t organically raised.

To find meats that are chemically free—no steroids or hormones—presents a challenge. Your health food store or independent meat market is the best source. They will either carry chemically free meats or maybe they can tell you where you can find them. (If you are a meat eater, this same information is vitally important to your own health as well.)

 

However, I repeat: If you do not have access to or cannot afford naturally grown meats, feed your cat whatever raw meat you can find provided it is for human consumption. If it is okay for you to eat; it is okay for your cat.

Many of you may not even be aware that the farm animals in this country are fed and injected with growth hormones, steroids, antibiotics, vaccines and preservatives during their lifetime. All of these chemicals and drugs are supposed to make the farm animals grow unnaturally large, do so quickly, and make the meat tender.

Our health pays a high price for this “tender” meat, because each one of these chemicals has side effects on both the farm animals and the one who eats the farm animal.

Pork should not be fed to domestic animals because of the possibility of trichinosis, an organism which to be destroyed requires cooking. Because only raw meat can be properly assimilated by carnivores, pork would not be a good choice. It is also the most difficult meat to digest.

Fish is an excellent source of protein, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals. But…are our fish healthy and edible anymore? Therein lies the question. First of all, there is a strong possibility that much of our fish is polluted with heavy metals, such as mercury and cadmium. Secondly, fish should not remain at room temperature for longer than an hour. Thirdly, you must be very knowledgeable about the condition, color and odor of fish to know that it is fresh and free of disease.

If you feel you have a good source of healthy fish, by all means, feed them to your animals. Of course no fins and no bones.

The only two dairy products that I believe should be fed are colostrum and butter. Colostrum is actually a food that the mother produces before the milk comes in and butter is fat; neither of them have lactose which is the real culprit that causes allergies for most animals.

 

Raw butter is an excellent source of vitamins A and D and fatty acids. It is best if it is not pasteurized; however, it’s almost impossible to find raw butter, so you will have to settle for pasteurized.

 

Eggs are a great source of complete protein and are easily digested. They contain all the essential amino acids and the following nutrients: vitamins A, B2, D and E, niacin, biotin, copper, iron, sulfur, phosphorus and unsaturated fatty acids. The egg yolk is the richest known source of choline, which is necessary for emulsifying or dispersing cholesterol throughout the system.

 

Eggs yolks should be fed raw. If you feed the whole egg, including the white, it is best to poach or soft boil the eggs for one minute, just enough to turn the clear part of the egg to white. This will destroy the avidin, which is the protein that interferes with the absorption of biotin, an important B vitamin.

Do not feed hard-boiled eggs or egg shells under any circumstances. When animals eat eggs or eggshells in the wild, the shell is still very fresh and soft. After the egg is a few hours old or has been cooked, the shell hardens. The edges of the broken shell become very sharp, which can cause internal bleeding.

The main concern with eggs is their quality and freshness. Make sure they come from healthy, free-range-fed chickens that have not been fed antibiotics, hormones or other drugs. Of course, it goes without saying that chickens who are caged and mutilated by having their beaks and nails cut are so stressed that they cannot be healthy or produce quality eggs.

Organic eggs are much higher in nutritional value than regular commercial eggs. If the eggs are fertile as well, they will contain beneficial growth hormones, as well as they will lower cholesterol.

One to three eggs at a meal, depending on the size of your cat is about right. For tiny cats under ten pounds, one egg per meal will be sufficient. For medium cats that weight from 10 to 15 pounds, two eggs; cats from 15 to 30 pounds, three eggs.

If you are traveling with your cat, eggs are one of the easiest fresh proteins to find. Eggs make a very economical meal.

 

It is best to feed one protein at a time, because each protein has its own special set of enzymes. Feeding several proteins at one meal makes it difficult for the digestive system. For instance, if you have some chicken left over from yesterday and today you are feeding beef, let your cat finish the chicken first, and then give him/her the beef meal.

What I am saying is don’t purposely mix any two proteins together; however, eating one protein and then eating another right after that is okay…just don’t mix them. And you certainly don’t want to waste food and throw out the chicken just because there isn’t enough for one meal.

If cats are eating raw meat, they very seldom have cholesterol problems; it is cooked meat that causes cholesterol problems for carnivores. If your cat is having a cholesterol problem, it is either because s/he is eating cooked proteins or grains, or because the liver, which regulates cholesterol, is not currently functioning properly.

  

Vegetables work synergistically; the greater the variety, the more effective they are. My suggestion for the top vegetables are: broccoli, zucchini and other squashes, Romaine lettuce, kale, chard, parsley, sweet potatoes, celery, and cauliflower. Other vegetables can be used if your animals like their taste; there are others that are very beneficial, but might be more expensive or seasonal, such as asparagus.

Raw vegetables must be processed into very tiny pieces, the size of sand, salt and/or add water during the blending so the vegetables are the consistency of baby food. Carnivores don’t digest vegetables as easily as they do meat, so make it as easy as possible for them to digest and utilize the vegetables.

In nature, cats would get predigested vegetation in the gastrointestinal system of their prey. That is why we must provide raw ground vegetables, as well as raw meat, to have a properly balanced program.

Steamed or baked vegetables can be used instead of raw if you choose on occasion because that is not the main source of a carnivore’s diet. It is the meat that is so important to be kept in its raw form. So if you have steamed/baked vegetables left over from your own meals, be sure to put them to good use and give them to your cats.

Keep baby food vegetables on hand. They are very convenient to use as the vegetable if you are in a hurry or caught short of fresh vegetables or if you are traveling. Cooked vegetables keep most of their nutrients intact as opposed to meat that is totally transformed in the cooking process.

 

Vegetables that are not recommended are ones from the nightshade family: white potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, which can cause inflammation. Iceberg lettuce, radishes, cucumbers, spinach, onions and fresh garlic are all difficult to digest, and for other various reasons are best not to be given.

Vegetables with a hull such as peas, corn, beans, lentils can also cause problems because cats cannot digest the hulls. Cats who are having any type of digestive problems, diabetes, skin ailments, diarrhea, constipation may also be having problems with the high sugar/starch content of these vegetables.

 

Each enzyme has a specific duty. For example, an enzyme capable of breaking down fats cannot break down vegetables. Cats, because they are carnivores, make very little amylase, the enzyme needed to break down grains, which leads to the belief that grains are not a necessary part of a carnivore’s diet.

Cats cannot maintain long-term production of the quantity of amylase enzyme necessary to properly digest and utilize grains. As a result, the immune system becomes irritated and weakened by the invasion of foreign, non-nutritive protein and carbohydrate particles. Grains, as well as cooked meat, are probably the greatest cause of pancreatitis, diabetes, kidney/bladder problems, crystals/stones, irritable bowel syndrome, impacted anal glands, overweight, plaque buildup on teeth, allergies, hyper- and hypothyroidism, skin disorders, yeast infections and other chronic immune problems.

 

In the wild, felines do eat the offal (digested food in the stomach, small intestines and bowels) of their prey; however, that is predigested vegetation, not grains.

 

Grains, such as oats, wheat, rice, barley, etc, are composed mostly of complex carbohydrates. They are not part of a cat’s natural diet. In the true natural setting, grains hardly exist at all. Even a mouse or other prey animal is not going to find much of its nutrition from grains. Herbivores eat vegetation: plants, seedlings, leaves, grasses, fruits, blossoms, flowers, etc. Therefore, the argument that cats eat prey animals that have grains in their digestive tracts doesn’t hold up to scrutiny.

 

Other clues that tell us grains are not necessary for carnivores are:

1) Cats do not have a dietary requirement for complex carbohydrates

2) Cats produce very little amylase which is the enzyme necessary to digest grains

3) Grains must be cooked and thoroughly chewed to be digested, and carnivores do not chew much at all

4) Nutrients found in grains are readily available from other dietary ingredients such as organ meats and vegetables.

 

In fact, if your cat is presently eating cooked or processed grains, including rice, you will often see undigested grains in his/her stools. Take a look.

 

 

Do not use commercial kitten milk that you buy in the pet food store! One of my client’s came to me because while she was feeding a commercial puppy milk some of it dripped onto another puppy’s coat. She didn’t think anything of it until a few minutes later when she went to wipe it off. The “milk” had dried like cement and was stuck to the coat. She tried to soften it with water and couldn’t; she then tried to pull it off and the hair came with it, leaving a bald spot. So obviously there are other ingredients in these products other than food. Even if you read the label it cannot be truthful, because what food what take off the hair? And what food would be the consistency of cement?

If this is true of puppy milk, I’m sure it is true in kitten milk as well, because usually they are produced by the same companies and prepared with the same products.

 

Raw goat’s milk is the best kitten milk if the mother is not able to provide enough milk or if you have an orphan. Powdered goat’s milk would be my second choice. One of the reasons goat’s milk is so beneficial for kittens is because it is higher in fat than cow’s milk, and it comes out of the goat already homogenized (the fat is emulsified in the milk) and kittens need that fat.

Kittens should always nurse until mom finally gives them the boot and says enough is enough. She will do the weaning just fine.

Mother’s milk of each species is totally different from one another. There is no resemblance between the mother’s milk of canines, felines, bovines and humans.

However, if for some unfortunate reason you have to bottle-feed kittens, my suggested formula is:

1 cup raw goat’s milk (powdered goat’s milk, or if you have to use cow’s milk, use half raw milk and half raw cream)

2 egg yolks (yellow only, not egg whites)

1 tablespoon of 100% Pure Colostrum

1 tablespoon of raw honey or molasses*

Mix well. Feed with bottle or syringe

Depending on the age of the kitten, you will have to offer this kitten milk mixture every 2 to 4 hours. Yes, that means all night long as well. You will quickly understand the amount of work and long hours that a momma cat puts in. Always do whatever you can to keep mom healthy and nursing. Feeding a kitten by bottle is the last resort.

You will have to massage the underbelly of the kitten after each meal to help with digestion and elimination. When mom is doing all her licking and nudging she is stimulating the system. You will need to simulate that process.

The kitten should have several bowel movements a day, about one for every meal. If s/he isn’t going often enough you may have to add additional raw, unheated honey or unrefined molasses to the kitten milk mixture.

Somewhere between 3 to 5 weeks the kitten, will be ready to eat a little raw meat and raw veggies. At that time put the raw food in a blender with a little purified water, blend well to the consistency of baby food, offer the mixture to the kitten and see if s/he is interested. If so, give one meal a day of meat and vegetables and the rest of the meals should be the kitten milk mixture. Slowly increase the amount of raw meat and veggies and decrease the milk. By 8 to 10 weeks your kitten should be off the above kitten formula.

Kittens should be fed on demand. If they are nursing, mother will encourage them to eat from her plate. At that time put mother’s food in a blender as in the above paragraph and they will usually wean themselves onto the raw food on their own by starting to eat out of their mom’s plate whenever they feel like it. Here again, some kittens may have a few nibbles at two weeks; some will eat full meals at three weeks; others may not start for another week or two. Whenever they are ready, they and their mothers will know when it is time.

After they are completely weaned, kittens will let you know how many times a day they want to eat. Healthy kittens are usually very vocal when they are hungry. Kittens should be fed on demand. They get to eat all they want and to eat as often as they want from two to six times a day. Remember, in the six month’s of a kitten’s life, s/he grows to full maturity and is able to have kittens of her own…and males father kittens at that young age as well. Do not hold back on the amount of food or supplements during the first six to nine months. Unless you have an exceptionally large cat or a cat who matures very slowly, s/he will have reached full growth by eight or nine months and should be eating just once a day.

The general rule for feeding healthy kittens the raw food program is:

                5 weeks to 8 weeks, 6 times a day
                8 weeks to 12 weeks, 4 times a day
                12 weeks to 20 weeks, 3 times a day
                5 months to 8 months, 2 times a day

Sometime during that 5 to 8 month period, on his/her own, the kitten will begin to lose interest in the second meal, and eat just one meal a day.

When feeding raw food, you will notice that they will not have to eat as often as they would if they were eating canned or dry, and they will not be constantly pestering you for more food. They will be satisfied.

Most cats that I see have a calcium deficiency. Calcium is the most abundant mineral in the body. Cats who are eating canned and dried foods, even home-prepared food, are often not getting sufficient calcium, not even enough to meet the minimum requirements.

By the time you see symptoms of a calcium deficiency, your cat has often been calcium deficient for months or years. That is why it is so important that every one who has their animal on a raw food program be sure their animal is getting sufficient calcium.

Many people are now feeding BARF, Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones And Raw Food and/or RMB, Raw Meaty Bones. Claims are made that no other calcium should be given, just bones. Raw whole or ground bones create a whole set of problems for the gastrointestinal system. (Please re-read Chapter Two: Cook and Bone are Four-Letter Words)

Some of the signs of calcium deficiency are arthritis; skin and coat problems; splayed feet; broken and/or bent pasterns; weak, easily injured ligaments and tendons; broken bones; patella luxation, severe pain, most often in feet, legs, hips, and heart; digestive ailments; hyperactivity; hyperthyroidism, aggression; lethargy; constipation; diarrhea; incontinence; kidney, bladder, liver and heart problems. Because veterinarians don’t understand healing through nutrition, the only procedures they can come up with are drugs, casts and surgery. None of this would be necessary if your vet talked to you about nutrition the first time you came into the office.

Raw meat, raw vegetables and the ESP Supplements is all your cat will need.

Calcium is the most abundant mineral in the body. The majority of calcium in the body is utilized by the bones and teeth; however, it is also involved in the blood-clotting process, in nerve and muscle stimulation, parathyroid hormone functions and the metabolism of vitamin D. To function properly along with the high phosphorus content in meat, calcium must be accompanied by magnesium, boron, copper, molybdenum, potassium, sulphur, zinc and vitamins A, B6, D and E.

Magnesium is an essential mineral that must be present in a calcium formula for the body to properly absorb the calcium. In addition, it plays an important role in utilizing vitamins B, C and E. Studies point out that the balance between calcium and magnesium is especially important.

We don’t hear enough about boron. It is needed for the metabolism of calcium, phosphorus and magnesium. It also enhances brain function and promotes alertness. Older cats are often boron deficient.

Copper is essential for the formation of collagen and connective tissue, which relates directly to joint problems. Copper is also very important for hair growth and healthy skin.

Potassium works with sodium (yes, sodium is necessary) and calcium to control the body’s water balance. It is essential for a healthy nervous system, normalizes the heartbeat, nourishes the muscular system and unites with phosphorus (which is in the raw meat) to send oxygen to the brain. Sometimes just the lack of raw meat can be the cause of seizures.

As always, we could go on and on about the necessity of vitamins and minerals and the roles they play for ourselves and our cats.

From veterinarians and from authors of articles you hear about home-prepared meals for animals not being balanced. More often than not, that is true; not because people don’t want to balance their cats’ meals, but because even the professionals who warn you that the meals are not balanced, don’t take the time to tell you what IS balanced. In most cases that’s because they either don’t know or they are selling a commercial pet food that they want you to buy from them, and they want you to believe that preparing your own is too complicated.

There’s nothing complicated about knowing that cats need raw meat and that meat is high in phosphorus, so you must balance it with a plant-cell organic calcium, plus the necessary nutrients for the body to utilize the calcium.

In the wild, carnivores eat their entire prey: flesh, bones, blood, entrails, organs, glands, digested and undigested food in the stomach and intestines, hair, head, feet and tail. The only parts they do not digest and utilize are teeth and nails. To provide a comparable meal domestically is impossible, but we can come close to Mother Nature’s design with a balance of all raw muscle meat, organ meat, vegetables and Flying Basset Calcium Complex.

Beef marrow bones and rib bones. Some cats can eat chicken and turkey necks. The important point is that you have to observe your cat’s next couple of bowel movements to see whether they are eating the actual bone. If the stools are bloody, if there is any discomfort, gas, vomiting, bloating, if there are any shards of bone in the stool, if your cat is constipated after eating bones, then do NOT feed bones.

Do not feed chicken wings, legs and thighs. These are long bones that can splinter causing them to be sharp with the possibility of puncturing the intestinal system. Some cats can chew the meat off of the necks and backs of chicken or turkey bones; however, if they eat the bones, I would not give them any chicken or turkey bones at all.

 

If you feel your cat can eat or chew on a bone after a meal, then be sure to only give raw bones. Cooking bones can cause serious problems because the bones become even more brittle, chip off, possibly puncturing the esophagus, stomach or intestines, which can cause internal bleeding and infection; constipation, rectal bleeding and blockages in the gastrointestinal system.

Hairballs

Cats should not have hairballs. If they do that means their pH is out of balance and their systems are not sufficiently acidic. In the wild they eat the whole mouse—hair and skin—the whole bird—feathers and all. They digest the majority of the hair and feathers because that is usable protein for them. This tells us that one of the first signs of digestive problems is hairballs.

Too much of the WRONG calcium can cause deposits. Calcium must be from a food source or a plant-cell organic source with the proper vitamins and minerals necessary to digest, absorb, assimilate and utilize the calcium. The body must be able to digest it just as it does food. When professionals warn cat guardians about feeding too much calcium, they are referring to traditional calciums: ground bone, egg shells, oyster shells, bone meal, calcium gluconate, calcium carbonate, calcium lactate and calcium citrate. These types of calcium are only able to be absorbed and utilized by the system at approximately 20% or less. That’s why you have the possibility of the other 80% being left as deposits causing crystals, stones and bone spurs.

Food sources containing calcium and the Flying Basset Calcium Complex can be easily absorbed because it is food. Not only does it not leave deposits, it will facilitate in clearing up present deposits. I have seen many cases where kidney/bladder stones and bone spurs have been dissolved on my raw food program.

 

Asparagus, broccoli, dark leafy greens are all high in calcium. Raw meals that you purchase or home-prepared meals should include some of these vegetables.

 

Calcium is the most abundant mineral in the body, vital to the formation of strong bones and teeth and for the maintenance of healthy gums. It is also important to the health of the heart. Cats often have some form of heart problem, heart murmurs, rapid heart beat. Lack of digestible calcium is one of the main culprits. Please note: if your animal has unhealthy gums and/or teeth, s/he probably has heart problems as well and is in desperate need of organic calcium.

 

Calcium is also important in the transmission of nerve impulses; it lowers cholesterol levels; is needed for muscular growth, contraction and prevention of muscle cramps. It is also involved in the activation of enzymes, including lipase, necessary to break down fats for utilization by the body; thus, tied in with skin, coat and flea problems.

Calcium deficiency can lead to the following additional problems: aching joints, arthritis, brittle or soft nails, eczema, hyperactivity, hypertension, hyperthyroidism, bone fractures/breaks, early loss of teeth, seizures (also magnesium deficiency which goes along with calcium) and tooth decay.

 

Calcium protects the bones and teeth from lead by inhibiting absorption of this toxic metal. If there is a calcium deficiency, lead can be absorbed by the body and deposited in the teeth and bones.

If you live in an area where you know the water is safe that’s great. Otherwise providing yourself and your animals with purified water is essential.

 

Water is not only the most abundant nutrient found in the body (approximately two-thirds of a cat’s body weight); it is also by far the most important nutrient.

Water is responsible for and involved in nearly every body process, including digestion, absorption, circulation and excretion. It is the primary transporter of nutrients throughout the body and is necessary for all building functions. Water helps maintain a normal body temperature and is essential for carrying waste material out of the body.

 

Pure water added to your animal’s food is vitally important to carnivores, because this is the most efficient way for their bodies to assimilate water. Felines in the wild do not usually have easy access to water all of the time, so they must count on the body fluids of their prey for hydration.

You will notice when you put your cats on the raw food program that they will immediately drink less water from their water bowl right after their first meal.

Pure water added to your cats’ food is vitally important to carnivores, because this is the most efficient way for their bodies to assimilate water.

Most Cats Ultimately Die of Dehydration

Dehydration in cats is most often the cause of death, no matter what the ailment was in the beginning. In the wild cats very seldom ever drink water. Often they go weeks without actually drinking any water at all. That’s why it is so important that they eat fresh kill or fresh raw food that provides all the fluid they need.

Fresh kill has 95 percent water; dry food has 2 percent. Dry food is the worst problem ever perpetrated on cats. It is criminal. Felines never eat anything dry in the wild. Why commercial pet food companies would ever do such a horrendous thing to cats is impossible to imagine.

 

Studies indicate many of our city water supplies are liberally laced with asbestos, pesticides, heavy metals like lead and cadmium, arsenic, nitrates, sodium and a variety of chemicals that are known carcinogens. Then additives like chlorine and fluoride with all the good intentions of the water departments causes its whole set of problems.

Is it any wonder our animals have arthritis, upper respiratory diseases, allergies, cancer, heart, liver and kidney disorders, urinary infections, poor teeth and gums, ear and eye infections and chronic skin problems?

Boiling tap water only makes it worse because the purest water will be lost in the form of steam and any heavy metals or nitrates will be even more concentrated.

Even rainwater these days collects atmospheric pollutants as it descends. If you continue to give tap water, the contaminants in the water can defeat your other nutritional efforts.

Purified water has a high degree of oxygen, which not only makes it healthier but makes it taste better as well. All drinking water and water used to prepare their food should be pure.

It is true that most of the minerals are depleted from purified or distilled water. However, minerals will be in the fresh food and, if you are giving your animals the Flying Basset basic 3: Plant-cell Calcium Complex, Plant-cell Animal Complex and Plant-cell C Complex they are getting all the essential minerals in their supplements.

Do not get your purified water from vending machines. Bacteria build up on the filters and the water is again contaminated. Otherwise they use chlorine to control the bacteria and you are back to chemically treated water. A reverse osmosis unit or other purification systems in your home are presently the most effective and inexpensive way to provide purified water for your animals and you.

Or you can buy bottled water in a food store or have it delivered, depending on the amount of water you consume. However, be careful, because some of bottled-water companies are adding chlorine as well. Be sure to ask.

 

 

Every kitten and every cat needs a different amount of food each time they eat, just as people do. It is how the body metabolizes the food that decides how much is necessary.

Commercial pet food companies who put on their labels the amount a certain size cat should eat each day is ludicrous. How much are you going to eat at your next meal? People aren’t even sure what they themselves are going to eat during any given day, so how can they possibly guess what amount of food their cat is going to eat?

No one prepares food based on how many pounds they weigh? Most people put more food on the table than is expected that everyone will eat and usually there are leftovers. That’s how it should be for your animals.

Adult cats should be offered food once a day and allowed to eat all they want at that time. Each time you put the food down, put so much on the plate…cats prefer plates instead of bowls because they don’t like their whiskers to touch anything…that they cannot possibly finish it. When they walk away with food on their plate you know they have had all they want to eat.

This program of allowing them to eat as much as they want at each meal can only be used if you are feeding healthy raw food. This method with canned and dry food won’t work, because they never reach the point of being nutritionally satisfied. I repeat: nutritionally satisfied. Being stuffed full of junk food does not provide nutrients; it’s just empty calories. The body is not interested in quantity; it is interested in quality.

 

Cats should never be allowed to free feed. Their digestive systems were meant to gorge, digest, then be completely empty for at least 20 hours or more.

There are a whole spectrum of digestive systems from the snake who eats once a month to the goat who eats 23 hours a day. If you feed the snake every day for a week, the snake will die. If you don’t feed the goat for one week, the goat will die. Cats’ digestive systems are closer to the snake and people’s digestive systems are closer to the goat. Mother Nature is always right, so we need to pay attention to what She tells us.

Fat cats are starving. (This is true of people as well.) In other words, because their bodies cannot reach their nutrition satiation point when they are eating commercial pet food, they continue to eat, hoping that they will finally be satisfied, but they can’t be, so the struggle goes on, and they get fatter and fatter and eat more and more.

Finally you go to your vet or a pet nutrition expert at a pet store who says, “Feed him a ‘lite’ formula and give him one cup a day,” or whatever. Of course, your cat will lose weight. S/he is being starved. What are they to do? They can’t open the refrigerator or the cupboard. They can’t tell you in people words the pain of suffering from starvation. All you see is that your cat is losing weight, and you think everything is okay. It is not! Cats feel the pains of starvation just as much as people do.

Three reasons why dieting doesn’t work:

1) Starving your cat only works to lose weight while you are depriving your animal; as soon as you allow your cat to eat again the weight comes right back, only now the body takes on more weight to protect itself from starvation again;

2) Your cat will not be getting a complete and balanced diet on these so-called lite foods;

3) If there is a physical problem, for instance, diabetes, or if the thyroid gland is not working properly, you will only be making the problem worse during the time you are depriving your animal. I just got a call from a person who had their overweight cat on one of the “lite” diets (prescribed by her vet) for a year, only to find out the cat had diabetes, for how long, no one knows.

You must give them healthy, raw food and let them eat all they want. They will lose weight while feeling comfortably full, and they will be getting all their nutrients as well.

Healthy adult cats don’t necessarily eat every day. If your overweight cat does not want to eat, do not encourage him/her! In the wild, felines may eat only once or twice a week.

When you first change over, offer your cat the same volume of raw food as compared to the canned or dry food s/he has been used to eating. Just eyeball it to decide how much. If s/he finishes it all that meal, then the next meal put double the food on the plate. Cats very seldom will overeat raw food. Make sure there is always food left on his/her plate.

If you have a dog, I would suggest giving the cat leftovers to the dog. Cats prefer to eat fresh food each day.

If your cat has been eating dry or canned foods, s/he may eat a huge amount of raw food at first to reach his/her nutrition satiation level or s/he may go to the other extreme and not eat at all, because the food smells foreign. Whichever the situation, be patient and understanding and in most cases your cats will soon work things out for themselves. There is always the exception that refuses to eat.

For some animals, you may have to hand feed for a while or maybe mix the raw food with some canned food or with some dry food that has been soaked in water first. Never feed dry food dry. Dry food is the worst garbage that has ever been perpetrated upon our animals. Dry food destroys the kidneys, pancreas, and liver; causes severe gastric distress, dehydration, to name a few of the serious ailments. All this devastation is caused by 1) it is cooked; 2) it contains mostly grains; 3) it has only 2% moisture. All food must have water, blood or some kind of fluid in order to be processed by the body. This is a serious concern with cats.

Cats in the wild are used to eating fresh kill. If they kill an animal and they aren’t hungry, they will leave it for another animal in the wild, and when they are hungry, they will kill again. They do not go back and get a previous kill that is dehydrated and rotting. Dogs will do that, but not cats.

You may have to mix a little of your own cooked beef, chicken, turkey in with the raw food. Be sure it is ground or cut up small enough that it mixes with the raw food; otherwise they will just pick out the bits of cooked meat and leave the rest.

You can also try some melted butter, colostrum powder or any healthy food that you know your cat likes, even if it is cooked, as a bribe to get them started on the raw food.

If all else fails, mix an egg yolk with purified water to dilute it enough to go through a syringe and give the egg yolk through the syringe.

When giving any liquid with a syringe, do not force open the cat's mouth. Just pull up the lip and put the syringe in the side of the mouth between the teeth and slowly empty the syringe, making sure that the cat's tongue is moving back and forth and doing the swallowing.

Caution: Cats will choke on liquid if you syringe it directly toward the back of the mouth and don't give the tongue a chance to actually do its part in the swallowing.

Presently a very serious problem with cats is hyperthyroid, the thyroid is over stimulated, here again, caused by the wrong foods, insufficient amino acids (raw meat) and supplements like kelp, alfalfa, sea meal which stimulate the thyroid and the appetite creating serious extremes for a healthy cat, throwing the system completely out of balance.

Weight changes, especially loss of weight, are very serious for cats. Consider one of the following:

1) One or more of their organs is not functionally properly, such as thyroid, pancreas, kidney, bladder or liver

2) Their acid/alkaline level is off

3) They may have diabetes, hyperthyroid or cancer.

 

Cats Are Not Finicky

With cats it is important to find out why they aren’t eating and keep a journal of how many days they don’t eat at all or, if they are eating small amounts, how much they are eating each day.

Cats will starve themselves if they are 1) ill, 2) if they are dehydrated, 3) if they have thyroid, kidney, bladder, liver problems or 4) if the food that is being offered isn’t a food they know.

Dogs are pack animals. If the leader of the pack (that’s you) says this is what you are going to eat, dogs know that the leader has checked the food out and it is fit to eat.

Not so with cats. Cats live singly in the wild and they check out their food each time they are presented with something different.

It is important to understand that when they are kittens they instinctively know how to kill their prey; however, they are taught what to eat. Some prey animals in the wild are poison to felines, so what they eat has to be taught by their mothers.

When domestic kittens are put on commercial pet foods after weaning, they are being “taught” that that food is okay. So later on when you change to raw, they are just doing what is natural for them and that is to be cautious, because they have already been imprinted with canned/dry foods as kittens.

It is relatively easy to put a kitten on raw food because they are not already imprinted with commercial pet food; not necessarily so with adults. They are more difficult to convert to any new food because their instincts are more defined. If it is not one of the imprinted foods, they are very skeptical…and rightly so. So be patient with your cat and help him/her to understand that it is safe to eat this food.

Cats are not finicky…that is a myth. They are rightfully cautious by nature.

 

Not only will each cat in your family eat a different amount, they will eat a different amount every day just like we do. No one eats the same amount of food each meal, each day. You can have two cats that both weigh 10 pounds and one will be a big eater and one will hardly touch the food. It has much more to do with metabolism than it does size. That is why it is important to let your cat decide how much.

If you feed their favorites, they will eat more just like we people do, so be sure to vary their foods. Do not give their favorite day after day. Cats should not eat the same food more than two days in a row. Each meat and each vegetable has a completely different set of nutrients; every one of these nutrients is vital for a complete and balanced food program, so be sure to vary their food program.

 

The main three differences between carnivores and omnivores are:

1) Carnivores have a more acidic system; their digestive juices are much more acidic, so they don’t have to worry about breaking down the food without chewing it before it gets into the stomach, and the acidic juices take care of salmonella and E coli;

2) Their small intestines are about a third shorter than ours; therefore, the meat does not putrefy in the system;

3) They have sharp, tearing teeth, while ours are flat, masticating teeth; they do very little chewing in comparison to people; just enough to be able to swallow the chunks.

You decide what, where and when. Your cat decides how much. When I see and hear all the different scenarios of the eating habits of people’s cats from my clients, I know that the cats themselves must be the ones to decide how much.

Let’s take another look at what Mother Nature does. Cougars, lions and tigers decide how much to eat on their own. Nobody is out there portioning their food. You never see a fat cat in the wild. In fact, most people comment that they appear to be too thin. That’s because people are comparing their overweight companion cats to the sleek and slender wild animal.

The best time to feed is in the morning. The body has its own clock: times to eat, sleep, cleanse, heal, et cetera. The best time to eat is between 7am and 9am or as close to that as your own schedule will allow.

During the evening hours the body does its best sleeping, cleansing, repairing and healing. So the emptier the stomach is at that time the better.

If your cat is truly nocturnal—up all night prowling the house—you may have to consider feeding between 7pm and 9pm because being active during the night is instinctive in many cats and needs to be taken into consideration. That would definitely be the exception, because most cats give in to our schedule and turn their lives around for us.

Feeding your cat the natural way is easy and fun, especially when you realize the true benefits of raw food and organic supplements. Keep it simple. 75% raw meat, 25% raw vegetables, and the ESP Supplements are as close as you can get to what Mother Nature had in mind and have a complete and balanced meal. Both you and your cat will be happier, and maybe this program will inspire you to start eating better food, too.

Never use a microwave for yourself, your children or your cats, even to thaw out your meals, because it heats by vibrating molecules at 2.5 million times per second causing serious damage in the breaking up of the molecules, consequently, the body considers them foreign objects; therefore, the pancreas doesn’t even recognize the substance as food and does not know what enzymes to produce to digest these foods.

Microwaves have been known to cause anemia, high cholesterol levels, high radiation levels of light-emitting bacteria, and a major decline in lymphocytes, with the body responding as if the food were an infectious agent. Studies have shown that babies have died from consistently having their bottles and/or baby food warmed in a microwave.

Many commercial pet companies, veterinarians and nutritionists are suggesting kelp and alfalfa as supplements that are to be added to a cat’s food every day. Both of these herbs are medicinal: kelp stimulates the thyroid and alfalfa stimulates the appetite. You definitely don’t want to do either of these herbs for your cat. Constantly stimulating the thyroid will cause shaking, nervous disorders and finally cause hyperthyroid. Hyperthyroid is already a serious problem with cats and a very difficult condition to get back on track. And you certainly don’t want to continuously stimulate the appetite so that your animal feels hungry all the time and becomes overweight.

Under no circumstance should you give your cat ground bone in their food, kelp, alfalfa or sea meal. I would advise staying completely away from all of these, because over the years I have seen serious problems such as impacted bowels and anal glands, bloody, chalky stools, hyperthyroid, overweight, aggressive behavior, lethargy, to name a few.

No dry cat treats, dehydrated treats, pressed treats, cat biscuits. All of these will cause dehydration which is a serious problem for cats.

No vaccines, frontline, advantix, program, flagyl, rimadyl, antibiotics, steroids, antihistamines, etc. The exception would be an extreme emergency…a life and death situation…where you must give anesthesia for surgery, steroids to breathe until you can find out what’s going on, etc, but there are very few times you will ever run into these types of emergencies.

These are the very poisons that cause the problems. There are always natural solutions.

Occasionally in a very desperate situation you may need to give an antibiotic. In the last 25 years I’ve used an antibiotic once for an inflammation that had to come down before we could operate. That’s what I mean by emergency and occasionally.

 

 

When you feed canned, dry, dead, cooked food or bone (cooked or raw) you put a burden on one of the most important organs in the body, the pancreas. If there are no enzymes to stimulate the digestive processes, the pancreas has to come into action and produce extra enzymes, burdening it with yet another job. It already has enough to do producing insulin and pancreatic enzymes. Too many cats already suffer from diabetes.

 

If your cat is ill, possibly not eating well and/or dehydrated, add two tablespoons of raw ground meat to each cup of purified water for your cat and see if s/he will drink it. If your cat is too ill to drink this broth, strain it, and give just the liquid with a syringe.

This can also be done with a raw egg yolk (yellow only) mixed with a couple of ounces of water.

This raw broth may save you and your cat a trip to the veterinarian.

As a guideline, in a 24-hour period, your cat needs approximately 2-3 ounces of fluid per 10 pounds of body weight for a minimum amount of fluids to keep from being dehydrated.

One way you can tell on your own whether your cat is dehydrated is to pull up the skin on the back of the neck of a healthy cat. The skin should snap back to the body very quickly. Now do the same to the cat you feel may be dehydrated. If it doesn’t snap back quickly or if you have any doubts at all whether your cat is dehydrated, this is the one time you need to see a veterinarian quickly so that your cat can be given subcutaneous or intravenous fluids.

I repeat: more cats actually die of dehydration than for any other reason.

 

 

Yeast infections used to be mainly a dog problem; however, now I am seeing it occasionally in cats. The main cause of yeast infections, such as Candida Albicans, is from grain-based foods, cooked, canned/dry foods, dairy, fruits, drugs, chemicals, poisons, including vaccines, advantage, program, frontline, antibiotics, steroids, anything that kills the friendly bacteria and enzymes in the body.

Vaccines compromise and destroy the natural immune system. Antibiotics kill the friendly bacteria which would ordinarily fight and overwhelm the yeast. All drugs, chemicals and poisons are all additional reasons for seeing such a preponderance of yeast infections. Yeast infections seem to be one the most under-diagnosed illnesses in the veterinary field.

Symptoms include: chronic ear infections; incessant licking of the genitals or the paws or both; lick granulomas; habitual scratching, usually the ears, sides of the torso and underbelly; rashes, most often on the underbelly; and when the yeast begins to move into the head; loss of hearing; loss of eyesight; loss of intelligence, memory and comprehension.

Yeast infections always start somewhere in the digestive system; then move to the genital and reproductive areas; then to the ears, eyes, nose and throat; then finally to the brain, taking over the entire body. It is insidious. Very often these problems are treated with antibiotics or steroids, which only make matters worse.

Rather than dwelling on what causes the problem,  immediately you need to get your dog on raw meat, vegetables, and the ESP Supplements to provide a healthy diet for him/her to be able to resist the yeast infection and parasites, and my Colostrum Cocktail to build up the immune system.

 

 

Acknowledged pioneer and leader in the development of the raw and fresh food diet, animal nutritionist, counselor and author, Pat McKay is nationally recognized by animal health care professionals for her contribution to the raw food revolution for cats and dogs.

She has devoted over 30 years researching and completing thousands of case studies where her findings consistently reveal that a raw food program insures maximum health results from her animal clients.

Moving from the theoretical to the practical, McKay has spent the last 25 years synthesizing her findings to create a complete nutritional guide, which offers the most up-to-date clinical information and quick-step menus that make raw, fresh-food preparations both fun and easy.

In 2003 Pat McKay sold her business and retired. Her present companions are Jacques, a standard poodle, 11 years old and Dutch, a Dutch Shepherd, 10 years old. Her dogs, even though they are purebreds, are rescue dogs.

Of course all Pat’s animals are on her fresh, raw food program, including naturally grown meats and vegetables, and plant cell grown supplements.

Author of:

REIGNING CATS & DOGS, A Holistic Approach to Royal Treatment for Healthy, Happy Carnivores.

and

NATURAL IMMUNITY, Why You Should NOT Vaccinate!